There was a time when a pint and a packet of crisps was considered traditional fare down the pub.

Now, with the smoke-filled Scottish boozer a thing of the past, pub grub has been well and truly "gastro-ed".

In the Michelin Eating Out in Pubs guide for 2009, 24 Scottish pubs have made it on to the list of recommended British pubs.

Three of the Scottish listings have even been named as inspectors' choice establishments, making them a favourite with hard-to-please critics. The three are The Sorn Inn in Sorn, Ayrshire, The Kilberry Inn, Kintyre, and The Anglers Inn, Guildtown, Perthshire.

The listings highlight a steady change in Scotland's pub culture. As organic meat replaces processed burgers and local, seasonal produce becomes fashionable food, the gastropub is becoming increasingly popular.

Derek Bulmer, editor of Michelin Eating Out in Pubs 2009, said the list reflected the best pub dining available anywhere in Britain.

"The quality of food offered in the pubs on the list is even better than ever," he said. "Traditional pubs are now offering restaurant-quality food, prepared to a very high standard, in many cases a superior standard."

Over the years, the gastropub has played its part in raising the overall reputation of British cuisine and although most of the Scottish gastropubs on the list are in rural areas, attitudes to pub dining in Scotland are changing.

Some gastropubs have gone as far as replacing their beer list with a wine list. Others have introduced tablecloths, formal settings and uniformed service and, in effect, become a restaurant in pub's clothing. However, some pub culture still lingers. Gastropubs usually take hold in old pubs that retain original decor, mis-matched tables and cosy sofas in front of the fireplace.

Mr Bulmer said a continued culture of change was needed in Scotland and there was still room for growth and expansion in the gastropub sector.

"Some people here still think of pubs as places to drink in rather than to eat in," he said. "Gastro dining is slowly creeping in, as the list for Scotland shows, but traditional pubs need to find more ways to invite people in. Since the smoking ban they have had to diversify, so there has been a boom in good food being served and pubs are offering new food to attract new people."

Gastropubs are sprouting up across the UK and Scotland is at last catching up. With the rise of the gastropub, people have started to think differently about dining out.

Food critic Joanna Blythmann, author of Bad Food Britain and The Food We Eat, said Scotland was on the cusp of change that could only bring positive benefits to the discerning foodie.

"With the credit crunch, restaurants are going to have to rethink their menus," she said. "Most places are in the habit of charging too much for mediocre food, but with people cutting back, they just won't pay for it.

"There are plenty of candidates for gastro in Scotland and numerous pubs that need an injection of life post- smoking ban.

"Traditional Scottish pubs have all the facilities on hand to turn themselves around, they just need to be a bit sparky with their ideas. Well-priced, adventurous food is the way forward and the writing is on the wall for expensive, middle-ground eateries."

So what is the secret recipe for a good gastropub?

"A combination of everything," said Mr Bulmer. "That includes good food, a warm welcome and good service, clean premises and a good choice of wines and beers. All of the things a discerning customer needs and all of the requirements of a Michelin-listed pub."

It's great to get this recognition'

IT is a small family hostelry with big ambitions.

Hanging baskets are draped across the entrance to the Angler's Inn in the quiet Perthshire village of Guildtown. Inside is a relaxed atmosphere with antique loveseats and, even in September, a roaring open fire.

The pub is the only new Scottish entry in the Michelin Eating Out Guide 2009.

Owner Jeremy Waves said: "It is great for us to receive this kind of recognition. It is definitely something we have been aiming for."

The last time Jeremy and his wife Shona received an accolade for their culinary skills it was a case of good news and bad news.

The couple were awarded a Michelin Bib Gourmand at their Perth restaurant, 63 Tay Street - having sold the business 48 hours earlier.

Manager David Will explained their recipe for success at the Angler's Inn: "Fine dining in an informal setting. Eating out need not be reserved for special occasions. People want to enjoy their meal without feeling intimidated - you certainly don't need a tie to dine here."

The inn strives to use local produce in its seasonal menu. Yesterday it offered wild boar from nearby Banff Estate, salmon from the Tay, and berries from a nearby farm.

Mr Waves added: "Many local farmers bring us berries or courgettes in return for a couple of pints. People who knew us in Perth come to eat at the inn. Others will travel from Edinburgh or Glasgow for lunch in the countryside."

Diner Linda Rollinson, 36, from Perth, explained: "The food here is just so good. When it gets busy, the atmosphere is great."

The inn has enjoyed great success with locals and visitors since opening in May 2007. And this time round, Mr Waves is keen to enjoy the taste of success for a little longer. Are they planning on selling up in 48 hours?

"No! Definitely not this time," Mr Waves said.