MAPLE CROSS is reputedly named after maypole dancing, which took place in the village, and the residents of Mill End once complained to the Lord of the Manor about the noise.

It must have been some party the two communities are a mile apart.

The church by the side of the Old Uxbridge Road is dedicated to St Thomas the Apostle. It was built and paid for by public subscription, including £20 kindly sent by Queen Victoria's mother. The churchyard is peaceful, despite the nearby A412 and the bright red turrets of a bouncy castle peeping over the hedge.

West Hyde is Hertfordshire's most southerly village. A stagecoach, the "Accommodation", called here in past times, on its way to and from London. In 1826, its owner, William Wyatt, was convicted of carrying too many passengers and fined £20. In 1862, it was put on record that of the local schoolchildren, "the girls sew nicely but the boys must improve in their lessons". As much of their time was spent working on the land, perhaps they could be excused.

I headed for the Grand Union Canal across an area once little more than a vast swamp, where even the Romans left the native Britons in peace. Hertfordshire is rich in Roman relics, villas and roads. There are none here.

It wasn't until the 1790's, and the construction of the canal, that the land was drained and the water was channelled into the lakes we see today. The canal enabled speedy transportation of coal and manufactured goods, even manure. But it wasn't to everyone's liking; canal boats were blamed for a cholera epidemic that claimed many lives at West Hyde in the 1870's.

The towpath leads unfailingly to Fran's Tea Garden, a convenient stopping place for canal users in boats or on foot. Just beyond, the South Bucks Way crosses open country to the Church of St Mary the Virgin, at Denham, where, despite the notice at the entrance "All welcome in God's name" the door was firmly locked.

Denham is a mish-mash of old cottages: so close to busy roads, so close to London. As I looked through the gateway of Denham Place, a far-off jet, just out of Heathrow, climbed slowly upward. It's all here, the old and the new, proof that we can move forward yet retain our rich heritage. A plaque on the wall of a brick garage says it all:

"As a bee gathers nectar without harm to the flower, so let a wise man dwell in the village." Wise men and women have taken good care of Denham.

The right of way leads up a curiously-named lane, The Pyghtle, under the railway, and along quiet streets until, at last, open country is reached again. It's grand walking country, even though you have to put up with the noise of the M25, which is crossed after a mile or so.

Then come woodland and fields.Today, one was occupied by a mighty bull who, with cows and calves watched idly as I passed unhindered. Presumably, the old bull was in a good mood. Finally a track led to Chalfont Common and the National Society for Epilepsy.

Pause at the entrance to look at the 50ft obelisk, erected by Sir William Gott, one-time head gardener to George III. The King, who hunted here, evidently liked to see the obelisk from Windsor Castle. You wonder how he could. It must have stood out on the skyline.

After passing along the drive of the Centre, open fields are crossed again to the third church on the walk, at Horn Hill. St Paul's was locked too, but the splendid churchyard merits exploration and rest, if needed.

Crossing the meadows beyond Cross Keys farm, savour the views across the Colne valley (and the M25, here in a cutting) to Harefield and Greater London. Maple Cross lies just ahead.

There was once a blacksmith's shop on the corner; now there's a transport caf. Don't worry if it's closed thirst may be quenched and limbs rested in The Cross pub.

As for that bull: don't worry. They're docile with cattle and new-born calves. That's what I read somewhere, anyway.

Routefinder

Start and finish: The Cross public house, Maple Cross

Appreviations: l. = left. r. = right. n. s. e. w. = north, south, east, west. br. = bridge r.o.w. = right of way. PH = public house m. = mile s/post = signpost f/post * fingerpost b/way = bridleway ch. = church f/p = footpath

Old Uxbridge Road to Oaks PH. Turn l. (Coppermill Lane) to the Fisheries Inn, Grand Union Canal. Take towpath s. to Fran's Tea Garden (3.5m), 100 yds beyond turn r. on South Bucks Way to St Mary's church. Visit Denham village centre, then r at Denham Place (The Pyghtle). Pass beneath railway (by station) take r. fork to Savay Lane. Turn l., cross A412 into Denham Green Lane, r. into Tilehouse Lane. 100 yds beyond Cedar Grange turn l. on South Bucks Way, crossing M25.

Head n. 300 yds, then straight on (through woods). 0.5m. further, at rd, turn l. (w) across meadows to Chalfont Common. Turn r (n.) up Denham Lane to Society for Epilepsy (Chalfont Centre).

Walk up the drive, follow blue f/p signs n.e., then e. on r.o.w. to metalled lane (Brawlings Lane), turning r. to crossroads - St Paul's church, Horn Hill. Turn l, on rd. 100 yds beyond double-bend sign turn l. on r.o.w. across field to lane. Turn r. for Dumb Bell PH, otherwise - left, Public Footpath No. 9 to Cross Keys farm. Take r.o.w. over the M25 for Maple Cross.

Pubs

Maple Cross: The Cross

En route: The Oaks, West Hyde

The Fisheries, Grand Union Canal

Denham: several in village: Horn Hill: the Dumb Bell

Approximate distance: 11 miles

Reproduced from Limited Edition magazine, exclusive guides to living in Hertfordshire, Middlesex and the London Borough of Barnet (01923 216295).

For a printable map of the walk, please click the image below.