North of Bondi
2 Byres Road, Glasgow
0141 337 1145

Food: Australian/south-east fusion
Price: Around £16 for three courses
Wheelchair access: Yes

Despite a smattering of theme pubs flipping compliantly lean kangaroo burgers, North of Bondi would seem to be the central belt's first Australian restaurant. Eschewing the barbecue of monster prawns and whole sides of cattle, the menu proudly foregrounds south-east Asian influences on contemporary Antipodean cuisine, its descriptive entries characterised by stir-fries and light curries.

While the pick 'n' mix fusion of traditional Japanese, Vietnamese, Thai, Korean, Chinese and Malaysian recipes allied to an ethos of healthy, hearty tucker is certainly appealing, in practice there is little to differentiate this from any number of Asian restaurants. That said, this is a bold enterprise for for head chef and proprietor Nik Biokto bring to the former Baby Grand premises.

Unfortunately, following an agreeable meal on a Monday evening, a return visit on a busier Sunday exposed certain failings. Any waitress who can recall three people's order without recourse to a notepad is worthy of admiration. But a waitress who sheepishly reappears twice to recheck an order pretty much makes a mockery of the notion of service itself.

In defence of our dish custodian, her performance only consolidated fears that this southern hemisphere fare might not be quite as eclectic or varied as it first appeared. Even a hurried selection from the comprehensive takeaway menu would reveal an excessive use of mint in the salads and a suffusion of raw bean sprouts in almost everything.

Admittedly, our starters establish a standard that the mains cannot reprise. The spring rolls have a joyous, harmonious flavour and gratifyingly crisp texture. Surprisingly light for the west coast of Scotland, the deep-fried vegetable tempura is also excellent, with a few too many onions but a generosity of serving that renders such quibbles negligible. Steamed gyoza, pale dumplings that taste as anaemically limp as they look, are nevertheless filled with lean chicken and come with a zesty ginger kick, while char siu pork is lukewarm but deliciously tangy when swabbed in soy sauce. Served with a yellow curry dip, a side of roti bread is moreishly tearable.

A duck and nectarine stir-fry disappoints, with the crunchy citrus fruit adding nothing to a fresh, clean serving of vegetables, while the bird is too fatty. A chicken, basil and cashew nut concoction arrives beneath a parasol of prawn cracker; the dryness of the ingredients is perhaps attributed to excessive char-grilling; chilli jam adds flavour but is over-powering. A Thai green curry is pleasant enough, though the welcome addition of pumpkin is obscured by too many rank and file, listlessly floating green beans. Connoisseurs of this ubiquitous, often liberally chillied favourite might find it too insipid for their tastes.

For dessert, cinnamon and apple fritters are sweet, spice and all things recommendably nice, as is a coconut and banana sticky toffee pudding, though the exotic flavourings are tricky to discern. Japanese pancakes will appeal to anyone who enjoys the Scottish variety.

Despite my strong reservations about North of Bondi, one imagines its flaws are simply the teething problems of a new enterprise and that it will correct its front-of-house issues promptly and fulfil the promise of variety in its menu.