Gandolfi Fish

Gandolfi godfather Seamus MacInnes seems to have come up with a formula for expansion that other bigger-name chefs would do well to emulate. For instead of spreading himself too thinly he merely moves up or out along the street.

His latest opening, a seafood bistro, is a welcome arrival. It emphasises the best in Scottish produce, with some rarely-seen dishes (how about smoky cod roe?) and a few Highlands and Islands touches. Bringing the fresh, clear-headed approach to a full fishy menu is such a logical development that we may soon treat the place as if it's long been part of the package - or a new favourite in the Gandolfi repertoire.

Since acquiring Cafe Gandolfi in the mid 1990s, MacInnes has expanded its fortunes. An early foray was in the now closed Habitat shop in the Buchanan Galleries. The next move was literally upwards. The loft space above the Albion Street flagship was transformed a few years back into Bar Gandolfi. That updating of the Gandolfi style, with more organic timber furniture from the Tim Stead workshop placed in a shinier bar-cafe setting, proved justly popular. Today, it is up the road only a couple of doors. True to the original concept, the new venture emphasises Scottish produce, cooked without too much fuss, presented simply. But while there is the Gaelic greeting written on the door (deagh bhiadh, deagh bheannachd: well fed, well blessed), the setting here is more polished still; a further progression of Gandolfi style. No Stead creations, indeed no stained wood.

The whole place generally feels light and airy, with some specially commissioned artwork by Lewis-based Moira Maclean hanging high above. A partition separates the front dining room from a second rear space, where there are booths and some counter seating well suited for a quick stop to slurp down oysters with a glass of wine.

The all-day menu is also divided between daily specials and the seasonally adjusted a la carte selection. The result is quite a choice, from appetisers such as devilled whitebait (£3) to starters such as a Caesar salad with avocado and crab claw (£7) or braised squid with black pudding and broad beans (£6) to "cold plates" of shellfish and whole lobster. Main courses (varying in price from the £14 fishcakes to a £23 Scottish seafood extravaganza) include standards such as fish pie or sole meuniere, as well as more adventurous offerings such as barbecued crab claw with garlic mayonnaise and tomato salsa, or whole baked rainbow trout with caper and almond black butter.

Among the innovations, an appetiser of salmon ceviche offers three thin tender slices, bleached by a tangy citrus marinade with some glistening bits of coarse sea salt, accompanied by a fine dice of dressed avocado. Equally intriguing and successful, the cod roe starter: three slabs smoked at Inverawe served on matching bits of toast, with a creamy aioli equal to the richness of the fish.

From the specials, the curried cockle and leek soup start may be mulligatawny meets Cullen skink: a filling, pungent thick stew featuring plenty of shelled cockles with just a hint of natural grit.

Staying with the specials on this night, a main course of pan-fried halibut offers a fine fillet only marred from having been cooked a bit past the point of perfect pearly succulence. The accompanying mint and pea puree is refreshingly seasonal, all surrounded with a slightly sweet, reduced red wine sauce. The sorrel sauce advertised to come with three plump fishcakes is arguably undistinguished, its flavours perhaps overwhelmed by steamed spinach accompaniment.

This all proves to be more than enough food, but sides of salads and veg, whether Gandolfi chips or roast cherry tomatoes with basil, should fill any savoury gaps, while a modest dessert menu can include chocolate tart or a banana, toffee and pistachio trifle. The wine list offers a host of reds and white by the glass, in addition to bottled options.

Staffing levels are impressive and the team, in the Gandolfi tradition, are professional and chatty, too. With MacInnes able to move between his three operations on this street, this expansion of the Gandolfi name feels as natural and fresh as the Scottish fruits of the sea in which it specialises.