The words "take care" are usually offered with a parting wave and a cheery "see you soon". On the rugged Knoydart peninsula, they are a little more ominous.

On a sign by the side of a track, they're followed by: "You are entering a remote, sparsely-populated, potentially dangerous mountain country. Please ensure that you are adequately experienced and equipped to complete your journey without assistance."

Thankfully, we're in the very capable hands of Ian Philp of trekHighlands and his guiding and map-reading skills are second to none.

There are only two ways to reach Knoydart - a 45-minute ferry trip from Mallaig to the hamlet of Inverie, the sole community on the peninsula, or on foot from Kinloch Hourn. Ian takes small groups three times a year on the latter route and it's a unique opportunity to experience the adventure of a journey across the country's most dramatic and unspoilt wilderness area.

It's not for the faint-hearted, though a comfortable pace is set to suit everyone in the group covering an average of eight miles each day. The starting point is at Ian's base in Glenshiel, then by boat along the loch to Kinloch Hourn. The first day's walking follows the shoreline to Barrisdale, looking out for otters in the water and sea eagles soaring in the clear sky.

After a night in a cosy bunkhouse, it's time to tackle the first Munro of the trip, Luinne Bheinn, with fantastic views of the Rough Bounds of Knoydart. Then the next day we conquer Ladhar Bheinn, the highest Munro on the peninsula at 1020 metres. For many hillwalkers, this is as good as it gets and nowhere comes close to Ladhar Bheinn. As the afternoon wears on, the clouds slowly disperse and the views are remarkable.

Apart from the exhilaration of walking along the ridges to the summit, there's a well-earned drink waiting in the Old Forge at Inverie. What more could a thirsty walker ask for in the wilderness?

Officially listed as Britain's most remote pub, it could also be one of the most welcoming. Walkers swap stories with visiting yachties and there's plenty of banter from friendly locals who take some of the more unusual goings-on in their stride - quite literally, at one point casually stepping over the participants in an arm-wrestling competition which has progressed to the floor of the pub.

For the two nights in Inverie we stay at Torrie Shieling, a 20-minute walk away in the hills above the village. Surrounded by forest, it takes peace and quiet to a whole new level and the sound of birds chirping is almost deafening.

Planning ahead with military precision is second nature to Ian - he was an army captain before moving to the Highlands - and there's a well-stocked fridge waiting for us. While everyone has a welcoming hot shower, he's busy in the kitchen cooking up a storm.

The long summer days are the perfect time to visit Knoydart. The walking is leisurely with no rush to get back before dark and there's plenty of time to wander back to the pub for a few after-dinner drinks.

Among the trees we see two stags, their majestic antlers silhouetted against the glowing evening sky. Then a kite circles above the forest, still searching for dinner.

After Ladhar Bheinn, Ian gives us an easier day and we set off on a boat trip from Inverie, down Loch Nevis to Camusrory. At one time a thriving fishing industry here caught herring, mackerel and shellfish, shipping it from Mallaig to the rest of the country. Now prawns, scallops and lobster are all that's left, along with salmon and mussel farming.

We pass the abandoned community of Stoul, which crofters gave up 20 years ago.

The most controversial part of the landscape has to be theatre impresario Cameron Mackintosh's multi-million pound home, rebuilt after a suspected arson attack. Life isn't all it seems in these parts, and some of the local legends are more like the storylines in Mackintosh's West End productions.

We go ashore and walk along to Carnoch, stopping at the ruins to have lunch and refuel before the 550-metre climb to the pass over Mam Meadail. A carpet of tiny lilac orchids cover the ground and when the sun bursts through the cloud, the green hills are illuminated.

Once we get over, the path winds down through Glen Meadail, past a grazing herd of Highland cattle, who peer at us quizzically through their orange fringes. On the final mile, a family of stonechats fly alongside for company, landing on the dry stone wall.

Unlike other parts of Scotland, there are few walkers on Knoydart's paths and that's the main attraction for most people.

"There's no doubt about it, people come here for the remoteness," says Ian. "Unimpeded views of the mountains with no signs of any human influence at all - it's a very special place.

"And there's so much wildlife - from golden eagles and ptarmigan to falcons, seals and porpoises."

We're back at the Old Forge for dinner on our last night in Inverie. Game casserole with partridge, pheasant and venison in a red wine and rosemary gravy is perfectly matched with a fruity New Zealand Pinot Noir. Then there's a whisky menu with nearly 30 different malts to sample. It could be a long night.

Clear heads are needed for the last walk which heads out of Inverie, to Glen an Dubh-Lochan and back to Barrisdale. A boat connects to Arnisdale and back to civilisation, leaving behind a lost world of misty mountains, deserted beaches and some of the scariest signposts we've ever read. Take care

Need to know
Prices for a six-day wilderness adventure, walking across the Knoydart peninsula with trekHighlands, start at £695, including food, accommodation, transport and Ian's guiding skills along the way. Itineraries are weather-dependent and tailored to meet the group. For details, visit www.trekhighlands.co.uk or call 01599 511311.