A GATHERING of 60 chefs was shown how to make the best use of the more mature Scotch lamb that is readily available in the early months of the year.

Known in the trade as "hogget", such older lamb is perceived to be strong flavoured and is often shunned by consumers who prefer younger, imported New Zealand lamb at this time of year.

"Hogget and mutton do not have a positive consumer image," conceded George Milne, development officer for the National Sheep Association (NSA) in his opening remarks at the seminar in Troon.

"Seasonality is an advantage widely recognised by consumers who want to buy spring lamb that they think is at its best at Easter," he explained. "We need to get away from this term hogget. It does us no favours in the market place," he added.

He explained that many of Scotland's lambs are born in late April and May in the hills and uplands and are not ready to be slaughtered until the autumn. Indeed, a high proportion of these young hill lambs are fattened during the winter to be slaughtered now as hoggets.

Laurent Veret, head of marketing at QMS, explained that it was a misconception that spring lamb is best. "Lamb is very natural and follows the seasons with different flavours. Lamb in the autumn has different flavours from lamb at this time of year as a result of their diet and not their age."

According to Veret, lamb slaughtered in the early spring while suckling has different flavours from lambs fattened off summer grass.

"In the autumn you can buy lamb fattened on heather that has a distinct flavour that gradually diminishes between five days and two weeks after coming off heather. Lamb slaughtered at this time of year tasted differently as a result of being finished on turnips, kale or concentrated feed."

The chefs were told that Scotch lamb flavours were as variable as the different tastes of wine from different regions. Just as the taste of wine is influenced by the variety of grape and the type of soil it was grown on, so the flavour of lamb varied with the breed, lifestyle and diet.

A first-class butchery demonstration showed the audience new and exciting cuts of lamb based on continental butchery techniques. That was followed by cookery demonstrations of various dishes by two leading chefs.

Margaret Stewart, QMS marketing manager, said: "We believe that education and market development are hugely important if we want to improve the long-term future of the Scottish sheep industry.

"Our research shows many consumers don't know how to handle lamb, and have preconceived ideas about it that are not always based on fact.

"The role of the chef is important in changing these ideas, as many people will eat lamb out of home, but do not feel confident enough to buy and cook it at home."

QMS has a lot to do to change attitudes in Scotland. While the Welsh ate 3.2 kilogrammes of lamb per person in 2006 and the English three kilos, Scots ate 1.3 kilos.